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Ferry Schedule: Thessaloniki to Peraia and Neoi Epivates (Update: Service has been suspended until Spring 2021)
Posted on June 21, 2019September 1, 2020

Thessaloniki has a beautiful waterfront but nowhere to swim.  However, just across the Thermaic Gulf are the beach communities of Peraia and Neoi Epivates, popular with locals and foreigners alike.  It’s not Halkidiki, but nice …

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Tradition and Modernity in Mauritania: The Sands under the Sea
Posted on June 14, 2019June 8, 2020

Part four of a four-part series.  For part three click here Change comes by way of water. Rivers, lakes, and seas are the great highways of the world. Almost every country on earth is in …

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Tradition and Modernity in Mauritania: The Black Sands
Posted on June 7, 2019June 7, 2019

Part three of a four-part series.  For part two click here Approximately two hundred kilometers to the north of the Terjit oasis lies Choum, a dusty road stop of mud brick blocks near the border …

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Tradition and Modernity in Mauritania: The Sands of the Oasis
Posted on May 31, 2019June 7, 2019

Part two of a four-part series.  For part one click here For centuries, the oasis has sustained existence in the desert.  These precious pools of water, which seem to bubble up from nowhere, are nothing …

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Tradition and Modernity in Mauritania: The Sands of Change
Posted on May 24, 2019June 7, 2019

Part one of a four part series exploring Mauritania’s evolving culture in the face of an encroaching modern world.

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Betel, Tobacco, and Pickled Tea, or: How I learned to Speak Burmese without Saying Very Much (Part III of III)
Posted on May 17, 2019June 7, 2019

I awoke to a sharp jolt as the ferry banged against the dock. It was still dark, but most of the passengers were already up. Thet and Khin Myat were busy packing their belongings. I …

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Betel, Tobacco, and Pickled Tea, or: How I learned to Speak Burmese without Saying Very Much (Part II of III)
Posted on May 10, 2019May 10, 2019

The first thing I noticed, when my eyes had adjusted to the dim light, was that there was just about as much activity on board the boat as ashore. A varied collection of goods were …

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Betel, Tobacco, and Pickled Tea, or: How I learned to Speak Burmese without Saying Very Much (Part I of III)
Posted on May 3, 2019May 17, 2019

Several years ago I took a trip down Irrawaddy. This is a previously unpublished account of that journey. The last thing I expected was to be stuck in traffic in Yangon. I figured that it …

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Five Surprisingly Pleasant Cities to go for a Run
Posted on April 26, 2019February 20, 2020

I’ve mentioned in the past that for the digital nomad jogging is probably the best way to stay fit on the road. Unfortunately, most cities aren’t designed with the sport in mind. Even a city …

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Building the Symbols of a Nation
Posted on April 19, 2019October 21, 2019

While in Dakar, a former Senegalese government administrator told me that in post-colonial Africa the primary purposes of government was to create the symbols of a nation. Senegal, like so many other areas of Africa, …

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