Part four of a four-part series. For part three click here Change comes by way of water. Rivers, lakes, and seas are the great highways of the world. Almost every country on earth is in …
Part two of a four-part series. For part one click here For centuries, the oasis has sustained existence in the desert. These precious pools of water, which seem to bubble up from nowhere, are nothing …
Part one of a four part series exploring Mauritania’s evolving culture in the face of an encroaching modern world.
I awoke to a sharp jolt as the ferry banged against the dock. It was still dark, but most of the passengers were already up. Thet and Khin Myat were busy packing their belongings. I …
The first thing I noticed, when my eyes had adjusted to the dim light, was that there was just about as much activity on board the boat as ashore. A varied collection of goods were …
While in Dakar, a former Senegalese government administrator told me that in post-colonial Africa the primary purposes of government was to create the symbols of a nation. Senegal, like so many other areas of Africa, …
I think the moment I fully felt the uniqueness of Senegal was sitting in a little wooden shack near the Marché Soumbédioune. Like so many others, I had made my way down to the sea …
Explore the history of a city forgotten to time and the great poet who was born there.
There are a lot of reasons to dislike Morocco. For one, its doubtful that any country on earth has a larger population of touts. They swarm around you, constantly buzzing in your ear like flies …
The following is a previously unpublished account of my January 2017 trip to Lalish in Kurdistan.